The Place

Well following our complete no go at Lydden and the subsequent tear down of our motor we find a big end has let go. It is times like this when I really do wonder why we bother [/i]

Triplebrew wrote:Well following our complete no go at Lydden and the subsequent tear down of our motor we find a big end has let go. It is times like this when I really do wonder why we bother [/i]

Probably because you love it, despite all the trials and tribulations that go with it. Good luck on the rebuild.

What oil are you using Tripps?

Redline semi synthetic 10/40.

It really is hard and such a learning curve as no one else is running a Triple in an outfit. Perhaps this is why?

I've ran a puma weslake for the past 30 years & never had a big end go. Over the years I've tried everything then 18 years ago I settled on VALVOLINE SYNPOWER Fully Synthetic. Brilliant stuff. A little dear but doe's not break down like Mobil 1 at high temp.
O/k,mines not a tripple but it is a British twin.
5W-40 or 0W-40.

Triplebrew wrote:
one else is running a Triple in an outfit.

Maybe not at the moment but loads have. Dad even used to run a Rocket 3 years ago

That is just it Steve people have - they don't now

One thing Tripps, you get better oil's now a days, we were stuck with Cazzy R.
Believe it or not, when Weslakes first came out they recommended to run them on Rotella aka diesel engine oil.

ianw wrote:when Weslakes first came out they recommended to run them on Rotella aka diesel engine oil.

Ah, Shell Rotella "T" oil. The only oil used in Bedford TK diesels by the Whittlesea Central Brick Company. I must have pumped gallons into those 330 sumps back in the sixties.

Used to run our Trumph twins latterly on Castrol 351 - developed for the F1 car mob - never had any probs attributable to oil Apart from the usual Trumph leaks of course ......

My old man went through loads of trident engines in the seventies, combination of two things, the engines had 2 outside bolt on crankcases to the middle crankcase and they were not in line and needed in line boring, the other most probable cause now I know a lot more about dry sump systems was the lack of a swirl pot on the oil tank, I have made dozens of different oil tanks for outfits and fourstroke snowmobiles and there bitch to get right, even running the same dry sump system on gsxr 600 / 1000 I had to modify the tank on the 600 because of the slightly higher rpm causing a problem.
My dad even tried mounting the oil tank on the top of seat thinking gravity would help it ! nope

Just thought of another tell tale sign if your oil tank is not working correctly, you will have little dots on the shell bearings where hot air is exploding.
Phil Pick is a well repected Trident man but he will tell you solos dont give the trouble outfits do because of oil tanks on outfits usually on the floor and incorrect shape.

Thanks for feedback guys. Mr Pick is our engine man for this season. He has never said about outifits being more challenging than solos. We know he builds a good motor - the Ledermanns are proof of that! Going over to see him and the destruction tomorrow. Good job we run Caillo rods or it would have been much messier!

Don't know where the oil inlet point is on a Trident, but make sure as Mike say's your tank is correct. You must be able to maintain a head of oil above the inlet to the engine. Also critical is the oil take off point on the tank.

The oil enters the engine underneath and is fed from a hose connected to the oil tank which is aporoximately 3/4 - 1" from the bottom of the tank.

Thinking long and hard about this and have a horrible feeling that the damage (or at least a small part) was caused when running the motor with the smp plate fitted incorrectly. Another learning point the hard way is seems! Why could this part not have been designed to only fit the correct way?